How to See Cute Polar Bear Cubs in the Wild

• From the comfort of your warm, cozy chair, of course!  Check out this "behind the scenes" video made by ABC Nightline News  which was filmed while we were in Churchill, Manitoba in March 2011.  

• But, if you can handle the craziness of minus 50 temps with Arctic wind blowing in your face, wearing 17 lbs. of clothing/boots, driving around on the bumpy tundra, staring at small den holes 100 - 120 yards away when you find them, and praying for happy faces to pop out and smile at your camera, then trek on up to Manitoba near the Arctic Circle.  Although freezing your fingers off isn't fun, the experience is truly magical. 

• You can see why I got hooked at www.wildliferhythms.com under the Wild Reality section:

          - Polar Bear Babies V - Romp and Roll (2013) 
          - Polar Bear Babies IV - Sweet Gestures (2012)

          -  Polar Bear Babies III - Born to Live (2011)

          -  Polar Bear Babies II - Adorable Triplets (2010)
          -  Polar Bear Babies I - Hello New World (2009)

• The only place to see dens/families is at Wapusk National Park in Manitoba, Canada (south of Churchill near Hudson Bay); and, the only lodge/operator is Wat'chee Lodge.  Wat'chee means high spot in Cree; and, the lodge sits on a ridge dotted with spruce trees, often with northern lights dancing in the sky at this time of year.

• In the past, Wat'chee Lodge was a closely guarded secret among pro and serious photographers.  But, now that the cat is out of the bag, it's safe to open up the kimono without getting slammed by fellow shooters.  

• The lodge is open from mid-February to mid-March and there are only 21 beds available, mostly 4 to a room.  With this very short season and limited number of beds, the wait list is always several years long. 

• If you contact Wat'chee directly, you'll be placed on the wait list for the following season after next.  Typically, you won't hear back from Wat'chee until your name comes up.  If you're able to go on last minute trips, sometimes you can get in on a cancellation for the immediate season.

• In order to stay warm, the initial investment for a Canada Goose Snow Mantra expedition parka, Canada Goose Rocky Mountain bibs and Cabela's Trans-Alaskan III Pac boots is obscene (in other words, a multi-year commitment) not to mention investments in adequate wool/polypropylene base/mid layers, hats, gloves/mitts and a heavy tripod/gimbal.  When available, you can rent Canada Goose parkas from the lodge and possibly purchase them as well if you inquire well in advance of your visit.

• There's no guarantee that you will see anything for days on end  as mama bear/baby activity can be earlier or later than your given lodge nights.  The train to the lodge to/from Churchill runs 3 times a week.  You should request at least 6 shooting days to increase your chances of seeing polar bear babies, along with your preference of coming during week 1, 2, 3 or 4.  The owners do their very best to fit everyone in; and, they take special care of their repeat guests.  

• The Wat'chee operation is a labor of love and running the lodge for only a month a year in these extreme weather conditions requires a herculean hands-on effort - more than you can ever imagine.  Mike and Morris Spence - brothers who own and built out the lodge - truly want to share this special experience of seeing polar bear families in/near the dens, while preserving the natural habitat as they remember it from their youth.  

• Mike and Morris have the most hands-on knowledge on the planet and share knowledge with various polar bear organizations and researchers.  Mike runs guest operations; and, Morris plus good friend Amak, are the best and heartiest polar bear baby trackers in the universe. The rest of the year, Mike, Morris and small staff of 5 have other full time jobs and responsibilities; i.e., Mike has been the mayor of Churchill for over 20 years.  

• The denning area, which became part of Wapusk National Park in 1996, is where the Spence brothers - Mike, Morris, James and Frankie - fished and hunted using traditional traplines with their parents when they were kids, with added knowledge handed down from their grandparents. The property is a refurbished World War II Navy communications base and is located 40 minutes south of Churchill.  All essential supplies - food, water, gas and building/auto materials, etc. have to be brought in by train; and, then driven through the barren tundra via modified snow vehicles for the lodge's one month of operation during the height of the denning season.  

• Every resource is precious and the operation is extremely well run.  Keeping Wat'chee vehicles running (and warm) in these harsh conditions is a feat in itself.  Most impressive is the hearty food that Daryl, the sole cook, is able to prepare for a hungry group of 18 - 21 guests plus staff.  The lodge is kept remarkably warm with only 2 wood burning stoves for heat; and, guests conserve at the no running water, co-ed facilities by bringing their own packets of no rinse bathing wipes and personal sundries, etc.

• There is no best week to visit Wat'chee Lodge as the season could start early (when families leave earth dens and head to the Bay so that moms can feed on seals) - or late.  After emerging from earth dens, families hang around for a few days (out in the open or next to snow banks referred to as day dens) before starting the 40 mile trek to the Bay.  Since there are over 200 re-usable earth dens in the area, success means being in the right place at the right time.  

• The number of family sightings in 2012 was unfortunately below average.  Researchers have been predicting that the late freezing and early thawing of the Hudson Bay ice will have consequences; and, this year may be the first dose of reality.  Less ice means less seal feeding time which results in fewer females strong enough to go into heat, and then to produce new families.  And it's possible that moms are staying with their cubs longer than before.  Whatever the reason, 2012 was an abnormal season as researchers spotted fewer families out on the ice as well.  I'm happy to report that 2013 was one of the best seasons in a long time in terms of entertaining viewing and quality photography.  But, it was brutally cold and very difficult shooting. 

• I always approach Wat'chee with the expectation that one good sighting per trip (active cubs in nice lighting) is a win for me; and, that 3 days of shooting out of 8 is a home run. But with wildlife photography, we don't win on every trip.  So, I'm always braced for goose eggs because it does happen here.  If you're not ready for these odds, perhaps Wat'chee is not meant to be because standing outdoors in minus 40 - 50 degree temps will already test your sanity.  Seeing triplets may be the brass ring; but, seeing playful cubs (twins or triplets) in nice lighting is the holy grail for me.  I saw triplets my first 3 years, but missed them by a few days the last 2 years.  Timing is everything.

• Wat'chee attracts experienced, diehard photographers with great attitudes (no whiners); and it's a great place for exchanging travel knowledge, making new friends, and seeing Northern lights.  It's estimated that only 500 or so folks in the world have had the opportunity to see moms with newborn cubs in the wild, so finding/watching them is pretty incredible. I want to stress that building a polar bear portfolio should be a multi-year commitment as the right expedition clothing (base/mid layers, parka/bibbs, Pac boots, gloves/mitts, etc.) is expensive aka >$2,000, you need a sturdy tripod/gimbal, the learning curve is steep, and there are up/down years.

• The ability to get sharp images continues to be a huge challenge, especially when winds are blowing 30 - 60 knots (35 - 70 miles per hour).  Lenses shake, your viewfinder freezes up, batteries drop to 50% in minutes, your cheeks/fingers burn, it's hard to keep your tripod/wimberley locked down, and rigs blow over when you're not looking; not to mention that it's difficult to operate camera buttons, autofocus systems get sluggish or stall, cameras get covered in ice, many bodies bite the dust - and, the subjects are 100 - 120 yards away.  Even without the wind, it's a challenge to get low contrast subjects in flat lighting tack sharp.  So, being blessed with nice lighting can make all the difference in the world.  And, it helps to stay calm when the back of your camera looks like a snow cone.   

• It goes without saying that it's critical to be fit and healthy; and, you must monitor and listen to your body to avoid frostbite and other serious injuries.  It's not the time to man up or prove a thing as there's no access to nearby medical facilities.

• It takes a high level of commitment, patience and definitely good karma to make this trip a success.  

•  If you're still serious about wanting to see these endearing, endangered babies in the wild, then get on the Wat'chee wait list now or find a US/Canada, Asia or European tour group that has available slots for the 2014 or 2015 season.  

• If you're a professional or make more than a dollar off of prints, you need to get a Wapusk Park Photography Permit which the the lodge can provide prior to your arrival.

• This is a seasonal business and the very small team works miracles in these harsh conditions (while giving up their normal jobs for this labor or love), so tips in the range of $40 - $50/day are appreciated. 

• Before visiting Wat'chee, be sure to review my Baby, It's Cold Outside section below as there's lots of prep work involved; especially, if you want to stay warm and comfortable.  Hopefully, I've taken at lot of the guesswork out of clothing and shooting tactics.   If I can do it, so can you!  

Chris
www.wildliferhythms.com