About Chris' Travel and Photo Tips

Thursday, September 5, 2013 | 0 comments

Wildlife photography certainly has it's share of challenges; i.e., being in the right place at the right time with the right lighting.  Plus, one needs to be armed with the right tools, positive vibes, and best shooting techniques on auto-pilot.

So, when I prep for safaris and wildlife photography trips - with a focus on African big cats, adorabe polar bear babies and endangered Bengal tigers - there are a zillion things that I try to do in order to insure a successful trip with the least amount of hassles.

I'm a list junkie and this started out as the typical what to bring pack list on my first African safari with Andy Biggs back in 2004.  As you will see, the list kept growing because the "whys and how" are just as important as the "whats". 

After 30+ safari/wildlife photography trips, I painstakingly documented what worked and didn't; ranging from travel logistics, gear weight and clothing for extreme temps; through shooting techniques, tools, image workflow, backing up tactics, and pre-trip action items. That's because:
  • Reducing total travel weight continues to be a major challenge and sneaking 50 lbs. of gear in carry-on is a never ending  melodrama due to increasingly enforced carry-on rules.  Plus, it's more difficult to disguise on petite shooters.
  • Reducing travel stress is always top of mind.  So I strive to make travel workflow as efficient and comfortable as possible aka "no gotchas" when traveling 35 hours door:door; and,
  • I want good value for the photo and travel tools that I invest in.  I have no affiliations with any of the vendors mentioned in this blog.  And, every ounce needs to have a payback without being penny wise and pound foolish.

Since I often get asked for advice, I'm sharing some of my action items in this living document.  Check back frequently as I'm always updating:  1) Chris' Packing, Travel and Image Storage Tactics which includes extensive Extreme Cold Weather tips (updated Sept. 1st), 2) How to Shoot from a Safari Land Rover, Safari Prep and Image Workflow plus Packing List (updated Sept. 5th), and 3) Avoiding International Air Travel Grief (updated Sept. 5th).  For non-photographers, the Hack the Hackers and ID Thieves checklist should be a valuable resource (updated July 16th) as well as Don't Leave Money on the Table - Travel Wear and Stuff (updated Sept. 1st).  Also, my extensive summary of sunscreen ingredients under For Creatures of Comfort item #23 (updated Aug. 2ndis an important read. Yes, it's a ton to do and think through; but, no pain, no gain.  Also, I'd rather be over-prepared than mildly handicapped.  
 
Chris
www.wildliferhythms.com

Favorite Galleries

Saturday, August 3, 2013 | 0 comments

In July 2012, I had my most heartwarming African experience ever when I focused 90% of my time on 5-week old leopard twins.  Over 10 days, there was lots of waiting by the den; but, the effort was worth it.  The gallery is called Leopards V: Most Adorable Blue Eyed Babies and it's located under the Wild Reality section at www.wildliferhythms.com.




My 10 day trip focused on polar bear babies in March 2013 was over the top as well.  Although it was my coldest experience ever (minus 55 - 60 with wind chill), I had a smile on my face the entire time photographing the most animated polar bear twins that I've ever seen.  It was hard to pick my favorites and the gallery is called Polar Bear Babies V: Romp and Roll




In February 2013, I had another exciting wildlife encounter with a leopard mom and her twin 2-week old leopard cubs.  Stay tuned for my next gallery which will be called Leopards VI: Moving Day.



How to See Cute Polar Bear Cubs in the Wild

Friday, August 2, 2013 | 0 comments


  • From the comfort of your warm, cozy chair, of course!  Check out this "behind the scenes" video made by ABC Nightline News  which was filmed while we were in Churchill, Manitoba in March 2011.  
  • But, if you can handle the craziness of minus 50 temps with Arctic wind blowing in your face, wearing 17 lbs. of clothing/boots, driving around on the bumpy tundra, staring at small den holes 100 - 120 yards away when you find them, and praying for happy faces to pop out and smile at your camera, then trek on up to Manitoba near the Arctic Circle.  Although freezing your fingers off isn't fun, the experience is truly magical. 



                    - Polar Bear Babies V - Romp and Roll (2013) 
                    - Polar Bear Babies IV - Sweet Gestures (2012)
                    -  Polar Bear Babies III - Born to Live (2011)
                    -  Polar Bear Babies II - Adorable Triplets (2010)
                    -  Polar Bear Babies I - Hello New World (2009)
          • The only place to see dens/families is at Wapusk National Park in Manitoba, Canada (south of Churchill near Hudson Bay); and, the only lodge/operator is Wat'chee Lodge.  Wat'chee means high spot in Cree; and, the lodge sits on a ridge dotted with spruce trees, often with northern lights dancing in the sky at this time of year.
          • In the past, Wat'chee Lodge was a closely guarded secret among pro and serious photographers.  But, now that the cat is out of the bag, it's safe to open up the kimono without getting slammed by fellow shooters.  
          • The lodge is open from mid-February to mid-March and there are only 21 beds available, mostly 4 to a room.  With this very short season and limited number of beds, the wait list is always several years long. 
          • If you contact Wat'chee directly, you'll be placed on the wait list for the following season after next.  Typically, you won't hear back from Wat'chee until your name comes up.  If you're able to go on last minute trips, sometimes you can get in on a cancellation for the immediate season.
          • In order to stay warm, the initial investment for a Canada Goose Snow Mantra expedition parka, Canada Goose Rocky Mountain bibs and Cabela's Trans-Alaskan III Pac boots is obscene (in other words, a multi-year commitment) not to mention investments in adequate wool/polypropylene base/mid layers, hats, gloves/mitts and a heavy tripod/gimbal.  When available, you can rent Canada Goose parkas from the lodge and possibly purchase them as well if you inquire well in advance of your visit.
          • There's no guarantee that you will see anything for days on end  as mama bear/baby activity can be earlier or later than your given lodge nights.  The train to the lodge to/from Churchill runs 3 times a week.  You should request at least 6 shooting days to increase your chances of seeing polar bear babies, along with your preference of coming during week 1, 2, 3 or 4.  The owners do their very best to fit everyone in; and, they take special care of their repeat guests.  
          • The Wat'chee operation is a labor of love and running the lodge for only a month a year in these extreme weather conditions requires a herculean hands-on effort - more than you can ever imagine.  Mike and Morris Spence - brothers who own and built out the lodge - truly want to share this special experience of seeing polar bear families in/near the dens, while preserving the natural habitat as they remember it from their youth.  
          • Mike and Morris have the most hands-on knowledge on the planet and share knowledge with various polar bear organizations and researchers.  Mike runs guest operations; and, Morris plus good friend Amak, are the best and heartiest polar bear baby trackers in the universe. The rest of the year, Mike, Morris and small staff of 5 have other full time jobs and responsibilities; i.e., Mike has been the mayor of Churchill for over 20 years.  
          • The denning area, which became part of Wapusk National Park in 1996, is where the Spence brothers - Mike, Morris, James and Frankie - fished and hunted using traditional traplines with their parents when they were kids, with added knowledge handed down from their grandparents. The property is a refurbished World War II Navy communications base and is located 40 minutes south of Churchill.  All essential supplies - food, water, gas and building/auto materials, etc. have to be brought in by train; and, then driven through the barren tundra via modified snow vehicles for the lodge's one month of operation during the height of the denning season.  
          • Every resource is precious and the operation is extremely well run.  Keeping Wat'chee vehicles running (and warm) in these harsh conditions is a feat in itself.  Most impressive is the hearty food that Daryl, the sole cook, is able to prepare for a hungry group of 18 - 21 guests plus staff.  The lodge is kept remarkably warm with only 2 wood burning stoves for heat; and, guests conserve at the no running water, co-ed facilities by bringing their own packets of no rinse bathing wipes and personal sundries, etc.
          • There is no best week to visit Wat'chee Lodge as the season could start early (when families leave earth dens and head to the Bay so that moms can feed on seals) - or late.  After emerging from earth dens, families hang around for a few days (out in the open or next to snow banks referred to as day dens) before starting the 40 mile trek to the Bay.  Since there are over 200 re-usable earth dens in the area, success means being in the right place at the right time.  
          • The number of family sightings in 2012 was unfortunately below average.  Researchers have been predicting that the late freezing and early thawing of the Hudson Bay ice will have consequences; and, this year may be the first dose of reality.  Less ice means less seal feeding time which results in fewer females strong enough to go into heat, and then to produce new families.  And it's possible that moms are staying with their cubs longer than before.  Whatever the reason, 2012 was an abnormal season as researchers spotted fewer families out on the ice as well.  I'm happy to report that 2013 was one of the best seasons in a long time in terms of entertaining viewing and quality photography.  But, it was brutally cold and very difficult shooting. 
          • I always approach Wat'chee with the expectation that one good sighting per trip (active cubs in nice lighting) is a win for me; and, that 3 days of shooting out of 8 is a home run. But with wildlife photography, we don't win on every trip.  So, I'm always braced for goose eggs because it does happen here.  If you're not ready for these odds, perhaps Wat'chee is not meant to be because standing outdoors in minus 40 - 50 degree temps will already test your sanity.  Seeing triplets may be the brass ring; but, seeing playful cubs (twins or triplets) in nice lighting is the holy grail for me.  I saw triplets my first 3 years, but missed them by a few days the last 2 years.  Timing is everything.
          • Wat'chee attracts experienced, diehard photographers with great attitudes (no whiners); and it's a great place for exchanging travel knowledge, making new friends, and seeing Northern lights.  It's estimated that only 500 or so folks in the world have had the opportunity to see moms with newborn cubs in the wild, so finding/watching them is pretty incredible. I want to stress that building a polar bear portfolio should be a multi-year commitment as the right expedition clothing (base/mid layers, parka/bibbs, Pac boots, gloves/mitts, etc.) is expensive aka >$2,000, you need a sturdy tripod/gimbal, the learning curve is steep, and there are up/down years.
          • The ability to get sharp images continues to be a huge challenge, especially when winds are blowing 30 - 60 knots (35 - 70 miles per hour).  Lenses shake, your viewfinder freezes up, batteries drop to 50% in minutes, your cheeks/fingers burn, it's hard to keep your tripod/wimberley locked down, and rigs blow over when you're not looking; not to mention that it's difficult to operate camera buttons, autofocus systems get sluggish or stall, cameras get covered in ice, many bodies bite the dust - and, the subjects are 100 - 120 yards away.  Even without the wind, it's a challenge to get low contrast subjects in flat lighting tack sharp.  So, being blessed with nice lighting can make all the difference in the world.  And, it helps to stay calm when the back of your camera looks like a snow cone.   
          • It goes without saying that it's critical to be fit and healthy; and, you must monitor and listen to your body to avoid frostbite and other serious injuries.  It's not the time to man up or prove a thing as there's no access to nearby medical facilities.
          • It takes a high level of commitment, patience and definitely good karma to make this trip a success.  
          •  If you're still serious about wanting to see these endearing, endangered babies in the wild, then get on the Wat'chee wait list now or find a US/Canada, Asia or European tour group that has available slots for the 2014 or 2015 season.  
          • If you're a professional or make more than a dollar off of prints, you need to get a Wapusk Park Photography Permit which the the lodge can provide prior to your arrival.
          • This is a seasonal business and the very small team works miracles in these harsh conditions (while giving up their normal jobs for this labor or love), so tips in the range of $40 - $50/day are appreciated. 
          • Before visiting Wat'chee, be sure to review my Baby, It's Cold Outside section below as there's lots of prep work involved; especially, if you want to stay warm and comfortable.  Hopefully, I've taken at lot of the guesswork out of clothing and shooting tactics.   If I can do it, so can you!  


            Chris
            www.wildliferhythms.com

            Avoiding International Air Travel Grief (updated Sept. 5, 2013)

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            Traveling internationally with a ton of gear is a total hassle.  It takes a lot of thought and preparation as every airline and airport has it's own rules and nuances.   Here are some of my lessons learned.  Also, learn more under Chris' Packing, Travel and Image Storage Tactics by scrolling to the bottom of this document.

            Checking In and Boarding:
            Updated 7.20.13
            • Avoid lost luggage issues by double checking your luggage tags - the final destination -  before agents move your bags to the belt.  Once it disappears - in a blink of an eye - it's tough to correct tags with certainty.  Also, checking in on small planes is an art - i.e., on Calm Air in Winnipeg - and you can find some of my tactics under  Putting Travel Bags on a Diet. 
            • Some airline liability terms do not cover cameras, jewelry or computers if lost/stolen in checked luggage.  So, make sure that expensive items like camera chargers and support tools are insured.
            • Your ticket may state that you need to be at the gate 30 minutes before; but, some lines queue up 60 minutes before.  Delta Gold SkyMiles and United Platinum cards will help to get you in the first boarding group.

            U.S. Global Entry and TSA Preê:
            Updated 8.2.13
            • If you're a speed/comfort freak like me, run - don't walk - and apply for TSA Pre√.  Seriously, it's so worth the effort aka no more removing of jackets, shoes, laptops, liquids, belts and watches before going through security (although my small gold pendant did set off the alarm at SFO).  At SFO, the Pre√ lines are still non-existent and going through is lightening fast.  TSA uses daily random passenger selection, yes/no is embedded on your boarding pass, and for me, I'm approved 90% of the time.  Participating TSA Pre√ airlines include Alaska, American, Delta, United and US Airways.  If you're a frequent flyer, contact each airline and provide them with your Global Entry number.
            • U.S. Global Entry is a stellar program for international travelers.  It cost $100 to apply, lasts for 5 years, and allows you to bypass the long customs lines when arriving back in the U.S.  Priceless.  
            • Note: some TSA scanners are sensitive to hand lotions and sunscreen (i.e., false readings) and you may have to get scrubbed for explosives if you go overboard.  Conversely, flying internationally can dry out hands and make it difficult for Global Entry scanners to read fingerprints.  Net:net: clean hands before going through TSA and moisturize fingers before using Global Entry scanners.
            • Also, register for the Smart Travelers Enrollment Program (STEP) .  This replaces the U.S. embassy registration process which enables U.S. Embassies to contact you in an emergency while you are traveling abroad and/or the State Dept. to send you important Travelers' Alerts. 
            RFID Credit Card and Passport Protection
            Added 11.16.12
            • My US Customs Global Entry cards came with a RFID sleeve along with important instructions.  This got me thinking that I need to take RFID risks more seriously.  If you want to see something scary, check out this youtube video  and Consumer Report.  Dollars to donuts, you'll think that you need to buy a protective RFID wallet and passport cover.  But if you already have favorite wallets/purses, you can use RFID credit card shieldspassport shields and Scanner Guard Cards instead.  Worse case, you can line wallets with foil/duct tape to save on expense.  Note: These solutions are not 100% foolproof and some reviews report that stacking RFID cards together can confuse some readers, or require thieves to get closer to the source.  Take precautions on how you dispose of credit cards as well; i.e., smash the chip with a hammer, cut them up, and toss pieces on different trash pick up days. 

            Smaller Aisles and Rows Mean More Liquid Hazards
            Updated 2.13.13
            • It's not unusual to see most passengers using their own devices - laptops, ipads and phones - for work and entertainment.  But with smaller aisles and space between rows, it seems that getting splashed by water, soda, wine or salad dressing - i.e., by flight attendants and passengers - is unfortunately becoming the new norm, especially when sitting in the aisle seat.  If your electronics are splashed, they can die days after the occurrence from moisture slowly seeping inside.  If this happens to you, turn them off immediately and try to draw any moisture out with desiccants or rice after landing, etc.  
              • For me, slip in laptop sleeves are faster to use than cases with zippers; and, if you're going to set your laptop down when letting middle/window passengers out, place it vertically against the back of your seat.  Not only will this prevent liquid splatter, it will prevent damage to your laptop (or earbuds, etc.) when folks loose their balance and fall into your seat.  Best case is to hold them, of course.

              Airline, Airport and Bush Plane Tidbits
              Updated 9.5.13
              • Boarding times have slowly been getting earlier on United/Lufthansa - i.e., an hour before departure (probably to compensate for stricter checked luggage rules and behavior).  If flying KLM via Amsterdam, boarding time is 1 hour and 45 minutes before departure.  That's because security screening takes place after entering the boarding gate area.  But, some of the Lufthansa boarding gates in Frankfurt now have scanners which allow passengers to self-scan, reducing boarding times back to 30 - 40 minutes before departure (good news if you have a short layover).  
              • Lightweight, see-through mesh pouches - are great for keeping things organized and reducing weight.  Plus, they make it easier for TSA inspectors to see what you're carrying without messing up your packing effort.  I use color coded meshes - i.e., red, teal and lime green sets from Barnes and Noble - and several favorites from Walker Bags My favorite size is the 4 x 9" mesh which maximizes utilization of space inside backpacks when stood on their ends; and, because the flat profile keeps cords and personal items condensed.  They also make a perfect passport, travel insurance and travel cards pouch.  I even organize pouches within pouches; i.e., the 2 x 7" for keeping thumb drives or Apple adapter/cord sets together.  When reducing weight is key, I also double up eyeglasses - i.e., in the Sun Cloud Trekker using cloth sleeves as protectors - plus inexpensive plastic cases for travel. 
              • Lighter packing cubes and checked luggage tactics: most seasoned travelers use packing cubes to keep things organized; i.e., the original Eagle Creek cube and knockoffs.  In 2013, I converted to Eagle Creek's Ultra-Light Specter cubes because they only weigh an 1 oz.  And because they're opaque, they're good at hiding items that I don't care to lose; (i.e., flashlights, headlamps, Swiss Army knives and technical clothing, etc.).   And, double layering makes it harder for inquiring eyes and probing/sticky fingers to work their magic.  For expensive items like monopod heads, gimbals, camera chargers and flashes, I prefer to lock them inside my dayback (ThinkTank Glass Taxi) and then cover it with an ultra light dry sack secured with a strap in hopes that lazy security agents or baggage thieves won't bother.  The Glass Taxi also protects breakables and makes it faster to pack/find things.  
              • Re-verify carry on specs and baggage weight rules before departing.  Specifically, read the fine print of your actual ticket.  If you're returning via different airlines (i.e., operated by or an alliance partner), luggage rules can/will be different.  Here are Lufthansa's latest baggage rules.  
              • Last Minute One Bag Carry-on Rule:  Some of United's Star Alliance Partners can be ridiculously callous re: last minute one bag carry on policies even if you're carrying expensive photo gear; i.e., my experience with Asiana's strict enforcement in San Franciso, Delhi and Seoul; and, Lufthansa semi-enforcement in Frankfurt and Munich.  Note: At Lufthansa, the trick is to dress nice and monochromatic, have a Star Alliance Gold card out, and to minimize the size of your bags so that they don't notice you/bags (i.e., I wear and carry bags in charcoal gray).  Also, domestic flights in foreign countries are always at higher risk for the one bag rule. When checking in at Lufthansa in Germany/Italy, friends were surprised to find that their carry ons were weighed; and, Icelandic Air seems to have the same practice.  So, always have a back-up plan.
              • Boarding Area/Carry on Tactics Rule #1: Look compact, nibble and lightweight.  This is easier said than done if you're height challenged like me as pro camera gear/bags look smaller proportionally on a tall person.  As a result, when selecting backpacks which count as my briefcase/ handbag, I look for bags that are narrower than my body so that when I sit in the boarding area, agents don't notice the bag on my back.  My camera backpack is on a luggage cart (which allows me to walk tall and light on my feet), the profile is kept slim aka outer pockets are empty; and, I dress so that my outerwear blends in with my bags aka monochromatic.  It goes without saying that I never wear a loaded vest which is guaranteed to make me stand out from the rest of the crowd (and not wise given airport security concerns).  Also, looking overloaded or wearing light colored clothing will make you stand out when standing at the front of boarding areas (aka more risk for a gate security check).  Lastly, I avoid standing next to folks with oversized bags or lots of stuff because that tends to put gate agents and/or flight attendants on alert, often resulting in foul moods and boarding problems.   All of my bags are listed in the section below "Putting Travel Bags on a Diet - Ounce by Ounce."
              • Boarding: If you have a Star Alliance Gold/Platinum card, keep it handy to get into the better airport lounges and/or to board with the first group.  The Delta SkyMiles Gold AMEX card gives you early boarding as well (but not necessary lounge access).
              • Connecting Flights (Especially When Small Planes are Involved - Int'l or domestic): always plan extra travel days in case of bad weather flight cancellations or for luggage delays.  That's because Alaskan/African/Indian commuter flights and tundra trains aren't always scheduled on a daily basis.  And when it rains, it pours.
              • Protect your overhead space/gear: early boarding is great for getting overhead space by your seat.  But, beware of rude folks who try to jam heavy items on top of your camera bag and/or try to move things around if you're not paying attention.
              • Germany: Allow for extra time getting through the large airport terminal and multiple security screenings; i.e., upon arrival and departure even if connecting.  In Frankfurt, it takes about 45 minutes to get from Gate B airport lounges to Gates A/Z check-in lines and vice versa.  If you arrive in the Gate A area from the US, you don't have to go through security upon arrival when connecting.  If you depart in the Gate Z area (same pier, different levels), I recommend staying in that pier even though restaurant options are still slim.  If you want to go to the main restaurant/shopping arcade in the center of the terminal, you need to allow time to go through two securities; i.e., to enter the Gate B/arcade area and again when re-entering the Gates A/Z area. Geez.  If you arrive in Gates A/Z from South Africa, you go through security upon arrival no matter what.  The worse is, if you arrive in an A gate and depart in a Z gate, they route you through this bizarre bogus detour which takes you to the very end of the security line (thereby giving priority to those going to B/C gates).  Net:net: if you're first off of the plane, you just wasted 40 minutes.  My last arrival in a C gate also required going through security right off the plane; and, then again to enter the B gates.  And if you are flying SAA, passengers line up at the gate 30 minutes or more before boarding time.  In the Frankfurt Lufthansa Senator lounge, many of the floor plugs by the comfy leather chairs are broken, so carry an extender in case you need to share with other passengers.  Also, if you're flying coach and thinking about boarding from a 2nd level Senator lounge, don't do it as you'll be entering from the back of the aircraft aka against the flow of traffic. 
              • South Africa: Arriving in Johannesburg: Airport/hotel porters and van drivers are happy with dollar bills; and many bush camps accept U.S dollars/credit cards.  So, check before leaving home.  If you only need a small amount of rand (i.e., 60 rand per checked bag for shrink wrapping when you leave the country, refreshments and server tips), the ATM's are located in the Domestic terminal on the left hand side (on the opposite side of the main lobby).  If you need more rand, the currency exchange kiosks are located in the baggage area and to the left before you enter the main lobby.  The minimum exchange fee was $25 the last I checked in 2012 which is why I use the Bank of Barclay ATM.  Note: I've always tipped game drive rangers in U.S. dollars using a mix of $50/20/10/5 new'ish bills.  Avoid carrying $100 bills to 3rd world countries because they're more concerned with counterfeit issues; especially at hotels.  If you forgot sundry items or needs adapters, the stores are located in the Domestic terminal (a short walking distance).  nice and reasonably priced hotel near the airport is the Protea Hotel.  The Sun Inter-Continental is excellent and right across the street; but, the rates are now 3x more.  Catch the Protea shuttle across the street from Terminal A which is where International flights arrive.  Walk down the pathway between the the parking garage and the Sun Inter-Continental Hotel and head towards the back.  Shuttles leave every half hour.  Vat refunds leaving Johannesburg on international flights: You can only get a VAT refund if you show an official your purchases on the first level of the airport.  This means that you need to get a form stamped before you get your luggage shrink-wrapped and before you check-in your luggage with your airlines.  After going through security on the 2nd level, you then have to process the refund voucher.  Next, you go to a nearby bank kiosk to get your cash.  Note that refunds are in rand.  Flying on South African Airlines: check in for flights is in Terminal B.  Then, take the elevator one level up to get through security (laptops out, not liquids).  At the gates, there are no orderly coach/business class lines or any orderly process at the boarding gate.  Once it's time to board, it's a no holds bar stampede.  So, be ready.  Pay attention to flight announcements so that you hear them, especially the one that says to cover your face/nose before flight attendants walk down the isle and spray the cabin with bug spray.   Flying on smaller bush planes (i.e., Federal Air)  means dealing with extremely strict weight limits of 44 lbs. for total bag weight. So, bite the bullet and purchase a 2nd seat to avoid travel grief.  The price/per seat each way is approx. $300  which you can mitigate if traveling with a buddy or two.  Note: With the extra seat, you still need to get permission in advance to carry your gear into the cabin.  The Federal Air kiosk is located between the parking garage structure and the Sun Intercontinental Hotel, in the back (across from Terminal A).   Arrive an hour before departure as flight times change on a dime's notice.  If you are departing on Lufthansa or United, the check-in counter is #101 and all the way to the left side of the cavernous multi-airlines check in counters.  Of course, they always drop you off at counter #1.  Once through security, Lufthansa/United co-share lounges with South African Airlines and the Senator lounge is very nice. Note for the ladies: there are only 3 stalls for the entire large Senator lounge which means that the queue can get long right before boarding times.  So if you need more timing for changing clothes, etc., don't wait to the last minute.  In addition, Lufthansa lets you check-in several hours before departure (i.e., 5 hours plus) as opposed to South African Airlines.  If you need more than a bowl of soup/light sandwich in the SAA lounge, have lunch at the fairly new Italian restaurant across from the check-in counters in Terminal A before checking in (handy when you're still lugging around checked baggage).  Otherwise, there's a couple of small eateries on the other side of security for both Terminal A/B.  
              • Reduce lost luggage risks by allowing at least 3 hours or more for connections.   Whenever someone tells me lost luggage stories, the connections were too tight 90% of the time. If your luggage isn't with you at the start of a safari, it might not show up for days, if at all.
              • Botswana:  I've learned (the hard way) to check-in early when leaving Johannesburg for Maun on Air Botswana.  That's because luggage doesn't always get on board.  And, because camp:camp bush planes aren't daily, you may have to charter a plane to deliver your bags before you leave for another camp aka expensive.  If not, there's a real risk that your luggage won't catch up with you until the end of a safari.   Also, pay attention to the muffled flight announcements and cover your face/nose before the flight attendants walk down the aisles spraying nasty pesticides!
              • African bush planes: some planes are only 4 seaters, which means that the cargo hold is proportionately small.  If you don't heed by the rules of using soft duffels, your luggage or long lens case may not fit in the cargo bay.  Since weight limits are very lean/strict at 20kg or 44 lbs. - and everything is weighed for safety purposes -  now is the time to radically pare down; i.e., see my Putting Gear on a Diet - Ounce by Ounce below.  Don't make the assumption that because you're petite that you can get away with more luggage. That's because weight is averaged out (and the "planning average" is less than the "actual average" of most Americans).  Plus, planes are typically loaded with bush supplies and/or luggage catching up from earlier flights.  Don't take the risk of missed luggage because it's a headache.  As mentioned, I always buy an extra seat, use my lightest weight duffel - Kinesis @ 2.2 lbs. or Eagle Creek No Matter What rolling duffel @ 3.4 lbs. (not stuffed so that it crushes down), a pared down photo backpack @ 3.7 lbs, and a no frills tote/brief/backpack to and from the int'l airport and in between camps.  
              • Canada:  Flying from Winnipeg to Churchill on Calm Air is always a risk for checked bag #2, unless you're willing to pay an excessive fee for "guaranteed freight".  At minimum, fly in at least 1 to 2 flights earlier than needed so that missing bags can catch up with you.  And, if you want to reduce the major stress of having to check or valet check your gear, read the carry on rules and luggage weight limits carefully.  Some of the agents follow these rules to a tee albeit they seem to be more lenient with Canadians.  Wear a jacket with large pockets to hide some of the weight; but, don't look overstuffed or else agents will ask to weigh your jacket.  Personally, I only put small, dense items in my jacket, like batteries, portable drives and camcorders, etc. along with eyeglasses and other flat items.  On this flight leg, I pare down to the absolute minimum as described in more details under Small Plane Tactics  under the Putting Photo Gear on a Diet section below.  Depending on your total weight (carry on plus checked luggage), overweight fees can range from $25 - $300, and hundreds more if checked as guaranteed freight.  
              • Adapters: Use seatguru to see if your airplane has A/C (if so, carry the appropriate cord/plug).  Also, carry euro airplane jacks for your earbuds along with the correct layover or destination country adapters.  Since earbud cords are fragile around the jack plug, also carry a spare. 
              • Airport lounges: check online airport maps before departing to identify the most convenient lounges as airport personnel don't always give you the right advice.  And since floor outlets near comfy lounge chairs don't always work or are occupied, carry a plug extender in case you need to share with other passengers.

              Be Ready for the Next, Next Leg and 3rd World Tactics
              Added 8.8.13
              • Going on international photo trips means lots of changing or tweaking; i.e., for airlines with different carry on rules, planes with different storage space, airports with different security measures, lodges and camps with different amenities; and vehicles (bush planes, buses, trains and jeeps) with different configurations. Good grief!
              • The goal is to be as efficient as possible without any hiccups along the way; i.e., walking away from valuables or losing one's sanity when things go haywire.  
              • It's a major effort to pack in an organized manner so that it's easy to shift gears - i.e., change camera bags - along the way.  My tactic is to work with a Packing and Workflow list that's tailored by trip.  I mentally walk through how I'm going to carry things on the next travel leg, identify where things need to go, and make reminders for important action items (i.e., getting local cash, checking luggage status, and swapping out adapters, etc.)  That's because using sleeping aids on international flights can fog the brain for a day.  Important sundry items/adapters are redundant so that there's no need to move items between bags (carry on, day bags and toileties) I also pre-pack items in separate pouches so that I can utilize a pick & pack approach; i.e., the travel home outfit, rain kit and game drive kit, etc.  And, all important travel docs/references are stored in my laptop and iphone - plus, a notebook.  
              • My approach use to be: get ready for the next leg at each step of the way -  i.e., switching between international and domestic flights, to smaller planes or trains, and between hotels and camps/lodges, etc.  But now, it's pack and be ready for the next, next leg.  This minimizes stress when flights/luggage are delayed or when there's no time in-between flights.  
              • 8.8.13: When traveling to 3rd world countries, there's a much higher risk of travel interruptions and it's easier to fix problems if you're prepared; i.e., having all local telephone #'s handy (airlines, hotels, credit cards/banks and embassies) for each country that you're visiting.  Since cell service may not be available and/or wireless is often slow, have important travel resources bookmarked and copied into an Emergency Contacts file (i.e., how to get a hold of AMEX Globla Assist).  You'd be surprised as to how hard it is to hunt for customer service numbers when you need it.  When things are written down, you're also more efficient when using a public computer.  And since companies are always enhancing security measures,  know your answers to security questions.  Researching hotel options and airline lounge hours for emergencies is also valuable, as well as carrying a few extra passport photos.  Lastly, I always pack a few tees/undies, a shower kit and a mini sundry/cosmetic/first aid kit in carry on in case of major luggage delays or longer than expected airport layovers. 


              Tips for First Timers to India: 
              • If you're traveling out of the Delhi International Airport or flying domestically within India, radically prune your carry-on bags down to the bare minimum before entering the security line.  If not, security will examine every inch of the bag with a fine tooth comb and it could take 30 minutes or more for every pocket and pouch to be opened and/or emptied out.  Make certain that every tool, including simple L wrenches, and non critical items are banned to checked luggage.  Even though I follow my mantra, I've still had to remove everything from my camera bag - i.e., cameras, lenses, teleconverter, CF card wallets and firewire reader/one cord - and put them into a flimsy plastic bin for re-X-raying.  Good grief!  And, make sure that everyone in the group is on the same page because one delay is a delay for all. 
              • Re-think what you pack. At domestic airports, they also do a pre-screening X-rays scan for checked luggage, just like when departing the state of Hawaii.  So, only pack your must-haves.  On my last visit, my Gitzo monopod was scrutinized (not because of any metal but because of the rubber grip); and, my rubber air blower (used to blow off dust from cameras/lenses) was 99% rejected until a friend came to the rescue.  Regardless, it was a time killer.
              • Re-think how you pack.  I had to have a dust blower on this trip (very dusty riding in open jeeps); but unfortunately, mine was buried at the bottom of my duffel.  As a result, my entire duffel was emptied out in front of a zillion passengers - gasp!  Now, I always put the blower inside a baggie at the top of my duffel with a friendly note/photo explaining it's purpose.
              • Don't use rolling camera bags for carry-on unless you're willing to risk your bag getting snatched away as checked luggage.  Also, be careful when selecting airlines if your carry-on is overweight as foreign airlines can be very rigid.  On my last visit, I used a small ThinkTank Acceleration backpack with a removable Samsonite luggage cart (same carry on as the previous year, same airline, same route).  I never had trouble with Asiana before.  But on this trip, I got serious grief departing and returning - in Biz Class!  A supervisor physically yanked the camera bag out of my hands and placed it onto the conveyor belt as I blinked in disbelief.  The fact that my gear was fragile and cost a small fortune did not faze him.  I managed to keep my bag by a quarter of a thread; but, my travel buddies didn't fare as well.  So, be warned.
              • Make a pack with buddies to watch over each other's gear before/ after the security X-ray machine.  With everyone having their own security hurtles and hassles, it's easy for things to fall between the cracks.  Unlike the U.S./Canada, you are not allowed to hang back and watch your (or your friends') valuables disappear into the X-ray machine.  Plus, people routinely cut in line.  So, your bags/purse can sit exposed for a while and it feels like a scam waiting to happen (aka very stressful!)  To add insult to injury, females are segregated and moved to another line - up to 3 lanes away - in order to get pat down in a closed curtain booth (while you pray that one of your buddies is watching your valuables).  In the meantime, more folks are cutting into the X-ay line.  So by the time you get back to your belongings, items are separated and/or buried under a pile of other travelers' stuff.  So, plan accordingly and be on top of your mental game.  
              • Remove all tools and extra stuff including lipsticks: A friend who just returned from another wildlife trip inadvertently left a small pair of personal scissors in a pouch.  Even though they were readily found, every other pouch had to be opened up and examined as well.  Ditto for a guy friend with a small L wrench; and; searches can take over 30 minutes - per person!  Also, it's not fun having to run to the boarding gate while carrying heavy backpacks in hot weather.  
              • Think twice before checking lenses in baggage:  If you're a risk taker and check your lenses internationally, be warned that you might not be able to get your long telephoto lenses into the country.  A buddy had his 400/2.8 lens detained by Indian customs.  His only saving grace was that the lens was registered with the U.S. Customs Dept. and he had his original U.S. Customs stamped paperwork on his possession (plus some cash).  But, it still took over 4 hours of multiple meetings and tons of paperwork to get it released.  Other photographers have reported the same Customs hassle as well - but, with carry on, not just checked.  
              • When traveling to India, you are not allowed to take rupees in or out of the country. And because the use of credit cards can be an ID theft gold mine and finding a working/secure ATM machine can be your worst nightmare - not to mentioned hotels being lean on rupees for exchanging dollars - it's advisable to exchange your currency at the airport upon arrival (for all service/game drive tips, laundry, drinks/water, luggage fees, spending moneyand emergency cash.  Be prepared to lose a whooping 8% of your U.S. dollars - the exchange cost in both directions -  as opposed to a combined cost of 10% in 2010.  Shop around for the best exchange rate and then negotiate a matching rate at Thomas Cook.   Remember to save your USD to rupees receipt that you will need for changing currency back when leaving the country.   And, remember to pick up your cash right away.  A buddy almost didn't get his Canadian money because locals tend to interrupt/disrupt ongoing transactions which created confusion with the money agent.  Fortunately, I was there as an eyewitness.
              • Ask for smaller bills from the get-go:  It's difficult to find and change larger 1,000 rupees for smaller 100 and 50 rupees which you will need for tips and miscellaneous purchases.   Thomas Cook typically pays out in 1,000 denominations and doesn't stock 50s.  Hotels don't keep a small bill inventory either, especially during the weekend.  So, your best bet is buy $100 packs of 100 and/or 500 rupees when exchanging your money upon arrival at the airport.
              • Best way to carry a wad:  $20 U.S. dollars equals 1,000 rupees.  So, a wad of 50, 100, 500 and 1,000 rupees for a 3 week visit will be heavy and several inches thick.  It's not easy to be discreet - or comfortable - carrying this much cash. One can spread bills between hidden pockets, a decoy wallet, neck pouches and money belts; but, it's a pain to keep organized albeit it's much easier for couples than as a single traveler.  I found that the most comfortable way of carrying a wad of rupees is to use REI's adjustable ankle/calf wallet (voila - no chest lumps, bulging tummy or neck strain).  In fact, I plan to use two of them on return visits and other international trips. 
              • Traveling to India isn't for everyone.  You have to like the culture, people, food (yum), noise, aromas and challenges.  For me, India is mesmerizing with so much history and emotion.  And, the endangered Bengal tiger is very special to see in the wild.  

              Chris
              www.wildliferhythms.com
               
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